How to Install Recessed Light Without Attic Access

Recessed lights, commonly known as canned luminaires, provide a pleasant finish to almost any room and are a reliable source of discreet lighting.

But some house owners may be reluctant to install them if they do not have access to the attic space above the room where they would like to install lighting fixtures.

As long as you can pass the cable through the roof, using fish to pull the cord, you can easily install canning lights in any room, even in one where there is no access to the attic.

Modern boxes are being used to enhance electrical outlets, lights, and switches in homesteads.

Suspended lighting fixtures can be installed under the ceiling, unlike access to the rooftop and ceiling beams from the attic, using a particular type of renowned electrical box known as updated bulbs.  

These types of electrical switch boxes entail of a metallic flashlight connected to an electrical unit with lighting cables.

The lightweight rebuilt chassis contains clamps on its sides, which expand after being pushed through the roof to secure it firmly.

Install your comfortable lighting units with variable lighting for a spacious home with additional ambient illumination to any room in your homestead.

Thanks to the use of a built-in luminaire with a variable design, recessed lights can be easily installed from beneath of ceiling, so you will not need to have access to the top of the roof and the roof beams in the at

Here is your step-by-step guide to help you with this project of your lightings

Step 1:

Ensure the power is off. By switching it off from the main switch. Confirm if there is any electricity flow by using a tester.

step 1

Step 2:

Press the lamp body to the ceiling where you want to install a new light fixture. Using a pencil, circle the body.

step 2

Step 3:

Begin to cut a hole for recessed light by drilling a quarter inch diameter hole in the middle of the tracked range.

Insert the saw into the drilled hole, cut it towards the drawn line, and then cut it along the drawn line.

step 3

Stage 4:

Locate the junction box or electrical outlet next to your light switch and the built-in light. Remove the faceplate from the junction box or outlet.

Remove the screws that hold the channel to the electrical case, then gently twitch the outlet out of the electrical case to expose the cables.

Source: Howtogeek

Step 5:

Find the position of the switch in the center of the recessed light and the electrical channel. Measure fifty-two inches from the floor and mark it with a pencil.

Draw an electrical box on the wall for the switch, in the center of the fifty-two-inch mark. Drill a hole at the  middle of the monitored range, and then cut with a saw.

Source: diynetwork

Step 6:

From the recessed light hole, pass the power cord through the ceiling to the hole in the light switch. Using fish tape, pull the end of the cable 6 inches from the wall. Cut the wire with wire cutters.

Also, cut the end of the cable that hangs from the hole in the light embedded in the ceiling about 6 inches long.

Source: TheSpruce

Step 7:

Insert an electrical cable into the hole at the electrical case for reconstruction.

Then place the electrical remodeling case into the opening of the light switch then lift it so that the clips snap into place. Insert the power cord into the cable clamp in the recessed luminaire housing.

Source: City-data

Step 8:

Using a multipurpose knife, cut 3 inches of the outer insulating cover from each end of the power cord to expose insulated inner wires and exposed copper ground wire. Then remove 3/8 inch of insulation from each cable using a wire stripper.

step 8

Step 9:

Hold the new black cable at its end, connect it to the black cable of the intersection box, then wind them together then add a cable nut to the connected cables.

Then connect to an electrical channel by winding the black cable counter-clockwise around the brass terminal screw. Use a screwdriver to tighten the screw. Apply the same steps with white wires.

step 9

Step 10:

Twist the two plain copper ground cables together with the plain metallic end of an insulated flexible cable.

Then screw in the insulated cable nut and insert it into the already threaded hole in the junction case. Repeat this step to ground the light switch cables.

step 10

Step 11:

Wrap a black cable from an electrical channel to an electrical light switch case round the brass terminal screw on the light switch.

Then wrap the white cable leading to the outlet counter-clockwise around the silver terminal screw to the switch, directly below the brass terminal screw and on the same side in the brass color terminal screw.

Step 12:

Twist the black cable that leads to the light switch and the black cable of the recessed lamp adjusting them with the cable nut.

Do the same with the white wire of the switch and the white wire of the lamp. Wrap insulated green wire or bare copper light switch ground wire around the green lamp’s ground screw, and then tighten the screw.

step 12

Step 13:

Insert the recessed luminaire body to change the shape of the ceiling so that the side latches snap into place. Then place the recessed light into its light body and fasten it with screws.

Step 14:

Attach a switch to the electrical case with screws then fasten the front panel. Your new recessed light is ready. Turn on the power again and enjoy the new light!

Tools required for the installation of recessed light

  1. Plug quarter in-driller
  2. Key saw
  3. Roulette
  4. Reconstruction of the electrical box.
  5. 3-wire or Romex electrical cable
  6. Fish ribbon
  7. Nippers
  8. screwdriver
  9. Reconstruction of the recessed light hull.
  10. knife
  11. Wire Stripper
  12. Green insulated strainer and a screw

Installing integrated lighting is one of the best improvements you can make in a home. However, one must consider the following three main decisions when planning for this installation which includes -:

i). What is the size and type of recessed lights?

The first thing to decide is whether you are going to use LED strips or combination kits of light bulbs?

The difference is that the LED strips do not use a light bulb and a separate finish. Instead, they are a complete fixture consisting of a driver, LED chips, a lens and an overlay, which are built into a sealed unit that is installed inside a recessed fixture.

Most of them use the orange 2-pin connector for installing LED lights. Most of them also have a screw base adapter for use in upgrading standard recessed luminaires.

There are several reasons why you can choose this compared to the standard finish and the type of light bulb, the most common of which is their attractive “sealed” appearance.

Another reason is the code. As energy restrictions become more stringent, most local ordinances have some sort of criteria that the lighting must meet in terms of efficiency.

One way to ensure this is to completely ban screw fixtures and use only high-performance plug-in fixtures for LED or fluorescent lights.

The size

Regardless of the type, you will find 5-inch and 6-inch fixtures used for general lighting in residential buildings.

Smaller 4-inch installations can be used for task lighting and accent lighting, and in some cases general lighting for smaller rooms.

ii). How many lights?

It’s considered that the brighter the light, the less necessary. However, not the brightness of the light makes excellent lighting.

It all depends on the distance between the lights. Too little light in the room will leave dark spots between them. Too many lights and right, it will be like too many lights!

Most often you will need enough light sources to position them at a distance of 40-80 inches depending on such factors as the size of the room, the height of the ceiling, the angle of the light beam of the lamp and the elevation of the working plane.

This can be calculated using basic trigonometry. However, I created a calculator on this page to simplify it.

iii). How would you like to control the light?

Think about how you will use the light in the room. Here are a few questions to ask yourself, following my recommendations:

Should they all be turned on with one switch, or would it be useful to be able to control some of them individually?

In large rooms where six or more light sources are used, it may be advisable to divide the light sources into several zones.

For example, in the master bedroom, you can have the light above the bed on a separate switch for reading in bed without having to light the whole room.

Do you want a dimmer so you can control the brightness? I recommend dimmers everywhere. This is a relatively inexpensive way to control the lighting in the room completely.

Where will the controls be located?

In most cases, controls should be located where you enter and exit the room. If the room has more than one entry point, install controls in each location where possible.

You do not want to go through the dark place to turn on the light – it is as if defeating the purpose of lighting.